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Going Wild: The wild and traditional foods that Trócaire is working to recover in Africa and Central America

For many rural and indigenous communities around the world seeds mean much more than an agricultural input. They represent life itself.

A local woman making polycereals from toasted maize, cacao, barley, oats, soy and jícara seeds, all of which are cheap and available locally in Nicaragua Credit:  Trócaire Nicaragua. A local woman making polycereals from toasted maize, cacao, barley, oats, soy and jícara seeds, all of which are cheap and available locally in Nicaragua Credit: Trócaire Nicaragua.

For many rural and indigenous communities around the world seeds mean much more than an agricultural input. They represent life itself.

Today, wild and traditional foods and seeds are threatened globally by climate change, habitat and agrobiodiversity loss. The practice of growing one crop species in a field at a time – such as rice, wheat, maize and soy – is also a factor, with small farmers being encouraged to adopt ‘improved’, hybrid or genetically modified seeds.

 

These pressures are leading to food insecurity for millions of people throughout Africa and Central America.

Trócaire and its partners in Guatemala, Nicaragua, Zimbabwe and Uganda have been working with rural communities to improve nutrition, food security and farmer income by recovering wild and traditional foods.

We raise awareness about the nutritional, medicinal and economic benefits of harvesting, cultivating, and processing wild and traditional foods. We also promote practical efforts for protecting biodiversity in natural habitats and in seed repositories.

Seed banks, essential as genetic repositories of wild and traditional plants, have been created across these four countries. They ensure communities have continuous secure and reliable access to affordable seeds.

By valuing locally produced foods, rather than the processed and packaged foods available at the supermarket, farmers are contributing to the spiritual, cultural and economic life of their communities – and ensuring improved food security for thousands of families.

Read below to see the various wild and traditional foods that Trócaire and its partners in Guatemala, Nicaragua, Zimbabwe and Uganda have been working to restore.

Guatemala

Guatemala is a Central American country with an estimated population of 15 million. More than 60pc of the population lives in poverty and 47pc of children under five are malnourished. 80pc of the land which could be used for agriculture is concentrated in the hands of 20pc of the population, with women experiencing greater insecurity in terms of land ownership.

Guatemala is also the seventh most vulnerable country in the world to natural disasters including earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, landslides, flooding and drought.

In Guatemala, Trócaire and partner organisations ADICI, AGEMA, SERJUS and REDSAG support principally indigenous communities to recover native varieties of maize, beans, chili and squash.

Amaranto plant growing in Guatemala

 

One of the wild grains which is being restored to the community is Amaranthus, a highly nutritious wild grain native to Central America. The grain is rich in fibre and protein, as well as many important micronutrients such as magnesium, phosphorus and iron. Its seeds are versatile and can be used as an alternative to wheat-based products such as flour or pasta.

Women preparing traditional and wild foods in Guatemala

Amaranthus can also be used for atoles (traditional maize-based hot drinks) bread and pancakes that incorporate amaranth flour (a gluten free alternative to wheat flour). Many of these foods and recipes have fallen out of use and been replaced by more generic and commercialised food imports.

Uganda

Uganda is a landlocked country in sub-Saharan Africa with a population of 39 million. Almost 20pc of the population lives in poverty and one-in-three children are malnourished. 80pc of the population is dedicated to agricultural activities and the country is often affected by high levels of rainfall and cyclical droughts.

In Uganda, Trócaire and its partners TEDDO, SOCADIDO, ARLPI and SARDNET have been supporting families and communities to recover the Shea nut tree (Vitellaria paradoxa), Bambara nut (Vigna subterranea) and Ocuc black beans.

The Shea nut tree in Uganda

 

The Shea tree is a deciduous wild tree with fruits and seeds that serve multiple purposes. The seed can be pressed for oil and shea butter production and its bark extract can be used for medicinal purposes while the branches can be used for timbers.

Nicaragua

Nicaragua is a Central American country with a population of six million. It is the poorest country in Latin America with an estimated 30pc of the population living in poverty. One-in-three children are malnourished. Some 70pc of the population engage in agriculture and the land is often subjected to natural disasters, droughts and tropical storms which are worsening due to the effects of climate change.

In Nicaragua, Trócaire and its partners OCTUPAN, ADDAC, GEPA, UGAQ, COOPAMOV and MCN-SOMOTO are working to recover wild and traditional foods particularly leafy greens; leaves from the yuca (cassava), sweet potato and squash plants; and to the consumption of tropical fruits. Yuca is a tuber grown across Central America and the root is one of the staples in the Nicaraguan diet. The leaf is edible when cooked and provides a cheap and readily available source of vitamin C, B, beta carotene, iron and zinc.

A local woman prepares yuca in Nicaragua

 

Warm drinks made from maize (atoles) are a regular feature of the Central American diet. MCN-Somoto has developed a fortified atole – polycereal – made from toasted maize, cacao, barley, oats, soy and jícara (gourd) seeds, all of which are cheap and available locally. These are prepared at schools by volunteers and served to children during their break times.

OCTUPAN has also promoted crop diversification in family gardens encouraging the cultivation of coffee, cocoa, plantain, and other types of bananas alongside other edible plants and fruits. Diets have improved and families are able to earn income from selling their surpluses of both coffee and cocoa.

A local family garden in Nicaragua

 

Zimbabwe

Zimbabwe is a land-locked country in Southern Africa with a population of 16 million. More than 60pc of the population live below the poverty line and one in three children are malnourished. Some 70pc of people rely on agriculture and climate change has caused rising temperatures and worsening droughts.

In Zimbabwe, Trócaire and partners Caritas Bulawayo, Caritas Masvingo, Dabane Trust, Zimbabwe Project Trust and ZELA support families and communities to tackle the chronic water, food and income shortages exacerbated by the impacts of climate change.

The marula tree is grown in hot, dryland areas in Zimbabwe and its fruits can be used to make liqueur, beers and jelly. After the fruits are used, the inner nuts, which are high in magnesium, phosphorous and potassium can be pounded to flavour relishes, greens and meat dishes. Oil from the nuts can also be used for cooking and as a skincare ingredient.

Marula nuts

 

 

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